La Fortuna, nestled at the base of the awe-inspiring Arenal Volcano, offers a perfect blend of adventure and relaxation. No wonder, it is one of the most famous travel destinations in Costa Rica, attracting over a million visitors each year. But is La Fortuna truly as amazing as everyone says, or has it become just another overcrowded tourist trap? In this article, I’ll share my honest thoughts on La Fortuna, including how to get there, where to stay, tourist traps to avoid, the best hiking trails, and an insider tip on how to explore Arenal Volcano on your own. So buckle up and join me on this adventure to La Fortuna!

Tourist traps in La Fortuna and how to avoid them

After a long day bouncing around in rickety buses, leaving behind the laid-back vibes of Tortuguero, I finally arrived in the famous little town of La Fortuna. The sun had already set, and I could only just make out the majestic silhouette of the Arenal Volcano against the cloud-covered night sky. What struck me immediately, though, as I searched for my hostel, was the bustling activity despite the late hour—something I hadn’t seen much of in other places during the rainy season.

And that’s when I made the classic tourist mistake: I walked straight into a group of tour operators.

Private tour operators like to call themselves info center

Disguised as a tourist information center, they were all too eager to help me find my hostel. But, of course, there was a catch—I’d first need to follow them to their office and book a tour for the next morning. Still lugging my backpack, I politely but firmly made it clear that I could very well make it to the volcano on my own without a car or a guided tour, and that all I really needed at that moment was a good night’s sleep.

Don’t trust Google Maps on this one

Finally, after navigating through what felt like a maze of “Fortuna Backpacker Hostels,” I made it to my accommodation.

When booking or looking for your accommodation in La Fortuna, keep in mind that many hotels and hostels have very similar names, which can lead to confusion. It’s important to double-check the name and location of your chosen place to avoid any mix-ups.

But just arrived at the reception, the same game started all over again: “No tour, no Arenal! You should book right away!”

Yes it is possible to explore Arenal without a tour

Please don’t let anyone convince you of that! Yes, tours can be convenient and might be a great option and fun for many of you. But I wanted to explore Arenal Volcano at my own pace, without the fuss and pressure of a guided group. So naturally, I found a more affordable way to do just that, and I’m more than happy to share it with you here (further down).

What to do in La Fortuna ? The best activities for every budget

La Fortuna is incredibly popular, and it’s easy to see why—there’s just so much to discover and do here. Here’s a small selection of the most popular attractions around La Fortuna and the Arenal Volcano:

HIKE: THE ARENAL VOLCANO

This towering, cone-shaped giant is visible from miles away, but it’s absolutely worth getting up close and personal. With so many hiking trails available, you’ll be spoiled for choice.

Further down, I’ve provided detailed information on hiking around the Arenal Volcano to help you choose the perfect trail.

REFRESH: LA CATARATA DE LA FORTUNA

The La Fortuna Waterfall is rightfully one of the area’s main attractions. To avoid the crowds, it’s best to plan your visit early in the morning. This way, you’ll have a better chance of enjoying the waterfall’s beauty and power in peace, and you can take a refreshing dip in the turquoise water.

ZIPLINE: THE RAINFOREST CANOPY

Experience the adrenaline rush of ziplining high above the lush rainforest canopy. Many tours offer multiple lines, giving you heart-pounding thrills and stunning views of the volcano, shimmering lake, and verdant jungle below.

RAFT: THE THRILLING RAPIDS OF THE BALSA RIVER

Feel the rush of adrenaline as you navigate the exhilarating rapids of the Balsa River. This white-water rafting adventure offers a mix of exciting class II and III rapids, surrounded by stunning rainforest scenery and the chance to spot wildlife like monkeys and toucans.

EXPLORE: THE HANGING BRIDGES THROUGH THE RAINFOREST

Walk across a series of stunning suspension bridges that take you through different levels of the verdant rainforest. The Mistico Arenal Hanging Bridges Park is a popular spot, offering a unique perspective of the lush environment and a chance to see exotic wildlife up close.

TASTE: THE WORLD FAMOUS COSTA RICAN COFFEE AND CHOCOLATE

Immerse yourself in the world of Costa Rican coffee and chocolate with a captivating tour of a local plantation. Learn about the intricate process of coffee production, from bean to cup, and savor the rich flavors of freshly brewed coffee or chocolate milk in a picturesque setting.

RELAX: HOT SPRINGS AND THERMAL RESORTS

Take a little break from exploring and relax in La Fortuna’s famous hot springs. Thanks to the hot lava beneath the earth’s surface, there are still numerous hot springs in and around La Fortuna. For the ultimate relaxing experience, you can visit one of the many thermal resorts, such as the Tabacón Thermal Resort.

However, if you’re willing to forgo some of the comforts, there are also a few natural and free hot springs in the area, like the ones near the Tabacón River. Just ask the locals for directions when you’re there.

Reserve activities and tours in La Fortuna online in advance

If you prefer to leave the planning and transportation to someone else and your budget allows it, you can experience the highlights of La Fortuna through a combined tour. To avoid getting lost in the jungle of tour operators I mentioned earlier, it’s a good idea to browse online in advance and reserve the tour that suits you best:

During the off-season or rainy season, reservations aren’t usually necessary, but in peak travel times, booking ahead is highly recommended.

That said, you can absolutely explore Arenal Volcano and the surrounding area without a tour as well.

How to hike Arenal Volcano on your own without a tour

Visiting Arenal Volcano on a budget?

Although Arenal Volcano seems close, it’s actually 9 miles (15 km) from La Fortuna to the national park and its hiking trails. If you have a car or take a taxi (around $30), it’s no problem.

But for those of us traveling on a budget or solo, walking might seem a bit more challenging. Thankfully, there’s an (unofficial) solution: the 8 a.m. bus to Tilarán!

Take the morning bus to Tilarán!

Just catch the morning bus to Tilarán (the bus stop is 300 feet / 100 meters south of the church) and ask the driver to drop you off at the national park. You’ll be let off near an old, small police station, from where you can cross the road and follow the gravel path to the left, leading to the ranger station.

The bus heads back around 2 p.m., so make sure to be on the road in time or try to catch a ride from the parking lot!

This way, you can reach the hiking trails for just a few dollars and skip the need for an expensive tour.

Ups and downs of visiting Arenal Volcano by public transport

Visiting Arenal Volcano on your own offers flexibility, cost savings, and a more personal experience, but you might miss out on valuable insights from a guide and you’ll need to be very mindful of the return times. While you’ll have the freedom to explore at your own pace, you’ll need to be well-prepared and aware of common safety concerns.

It really depends on what kind of traveler you are and your expectations. Think about your priorities and I’m sure you’ll make the right decision.

Hiking in Arenal Volcano National Park

The real reason for La Fortuna’s popularity is, of course, its picturesque location in the shadow of the cone-shaped Arenal Volcano. For a long time, visitors could marvel at daily displays of glowing lava flows, dark ash columns, and ominous explosions. Although there are currently no fiery streams to witness, the cooled lava now offers the opportunity for extraordinary hikes.

If you want to admire the impressive volcano up close and even hike on the lava trails, you first need to choose between the starting points of the ranger station, the park administration, and Arenal 1968.

Entry fees are the same everywhere, around $10 for adults.

PARK ADMINISTRATION TRAILS – 1992 ERUPTION

Not far from the ranger station, you’ll find the trails managed by the main administration of the Arenal Volcano National Park. The most rewarding loop from here is the Old Lava Flow Trail, where you follow the path of the lava flow from the massive 1992 eruption.

The trail is 2.5 miles (4 km) long and takes about 2 hours to complete.

Afterward, you can continue on the Sendero El Ceibo, a 1.1-mile (1.8 km) trail that winds through lush secondary forest.

Alternatively, there’s the shorter Sendero Los Miradores, a 0.8-mile (1.3 km) trail that leads down to the volcano lake, offering a stunning view of Arenal Volcano.

RANGER STATION TRAILS – 1993 ERUPTION

From the ranger station, there are also three different hiking options that you can mix and match as you like:

Sendero Los Heliconias

The Sendero Los Heliconias is a short 0.6-mile (1 km) trail leading to a viewpoint with spectacular views of the volcano, Lake Arenal, and the cooled lava flows.

This short and popular trail is a good, easy option for children and people with limited mobility.

Sendero Las Coladas

The Sendero Las Coladas winds around the base of the volcano, offering views of the southern lava fields and the rocky remnants of the last major eruption in 1992.

This trail is mostly flat, easy, and only 1.2 miles (2 km) long.

Sendero Los Tucanes

The Sendero Los Tucanes picks up where the Las Coladas Trail ends, allowing you to hike an additional 1.9 miles (3 km) through secondary rainforest and over more lava beds.

However, you’ll need to retrace your steps to return to the parking lot.

TRAILS FROM THE 1968 ERUPTION

Just before the ranger station, there’s a newer, private trail network that follows the lava flow from the 1968 eruption. Based on several recommendations, I ultimately chose this hiking route, and I can definitely recommend it.

The trail initially winds through fields and cow pastures before you need to choose between the Bosque Trail and the Colada Trail. It’s important to note that both paths lead to the same viewpoint. However, the Colada Trail is slightly shorter and easier.

My solo hiking experience at Arenal Volcano – The Bosque Trail

Reaching the fork in the trail, I chose the Bosque Trail over the Colada Trail, drawn by the promise of a more immersive experience in the dense forest. As the name suggests, the Bosque Trail follows the old lava flows into the dense forest before leading up through lava fields to the viewpoint.

The forest trail also passes by Lago Los Patos (Duck Lake), which was formed during the eruptions.

Hiking trail conditions

The trail was rugged, with roots and rocks jutting out, making each step a little extra careful during the rainy season. As I finally neared the viewpoint, the trail leveled out slightly, and I was rewarded with a breathtaking panorama of Arenal Volcano. The peak was shrouded in clouds, adding to its mystique, while the surrounding landscape stretched out below me in a patchwork of greens and greys.

The effort of the hike was instantly forgotten as I stood there, taking in the view. 

This loop is approximately 2.9 miles (4.7 km) long and is considered moderately challenging due to some steep, uneven sections.

Hiking at Arenal Volcano National Parc – worth it?

However, with good footwear and enough water supplies, this route is well worth the effort. In addition to the stunning views of the volcano and lake, the trail offers fascinating sections and great opportunities to spot wildlife, particularly birds.

Where to stay in La Fortuna

Choosing the right place to stay in La Fortuna depends on your travel style, budget, and what kind of experience you’re seeking. Whether you’re in the mood for a spa retreat, eco-lodges, or a social atmosphere, La Fortuna has something for everyone.

Luxury resorts and hotels

Hotel Arenal Kioro Suites & Spa ➳ Suite & Spa for Two from $150

For those looking to indulge in the luxurious spa resorts around La Fortuna, the Kioro Suites & Spa offers excellent value for money. Located just 10 minutes from Lake Arenal, this hotel provides breathtaking views of the volcano, along with thermal baths, a pool, and a private hot tub.

It’s the perfect spot for a relaxing getaway with a touch of luxury.

Noah’s Forest Hotel by Tifakara ➳ Deluxe Bungalow with Spa from $225

This beautifully maintained property offers the ideal balance of tranquility and convenience, nestled just outside the town center. The peaceful grounds are a haven for wildlife lovers, with opportunities to spot sloths, iguanas, and a variety of birds right on-site. After a day of exploring, you can unwind in the hotel’s spa, adding a touch of indulgence to your stay.

It’s the place for a serene and luxurious escape, where you can relax in comfort, surrounded by the natural beauty of Costa Rica, while still being close to the area’s attractions.

Unique mid-range accommodations

Bungalows Las Iguanas Arenal Volcano ➳ Double room from $85

If you’re seeking a hidden gem in La Fortuna, I can’t recommend Bungalows Las Iguanas enough. Nestled in the quiet, unspoiled corners of La Fortuna, this place is a dream for anyone craving privacy and a real connection with nature. The hosts are incredibly attentive, taking care of every detail to make your stay unforgettable.

If you got a car, this is the ideal spot to unwind and immerse yourself in the natural beauty of La Fortuna.

Arenal Observatory Lodge & Trails ➳ Double room from $80

If you’re looking to escape the crowds and immerse yourself in nature, Arenal Observatory Lodge & Trails is an exceptional choice. The location is truly special, offering stunning views of Arenal Volcano right from the property, and even from the pool. You can explore countless trails and experience wildlife up close without ever leaving the property. The guided night walk is a must!

It’s the perfect spot for anyone seeking a genuine connection with nature in a peaceful, secluded environment.

Budget-friendly options

Selina La Fortuna ➳ Bed from $20

Backpackers are welcomed here with a complimentary drink at the thermal pool bar. Selina La Fortuna features a tropical garden with hammocks, pools, a cocktail bar, central location, all in a clean and air-conditioned setting.

It’s especially great for backpackers looking to enjoy the vibrant atmosphere—definitely one of the best hostels in La Fortuna for those in the mood to meet people!

Hotel La Pradera del Arenal

A family-run hotel with basic but comfortable rooms, great views, and a swimming pool. It’s close to the town center and very affordable.

Arenal Hostel Resort

Another popular choice for backpackers and budget travelers. It offers dormitory and private rooms, a swimming pool, and a social atmosphere.

⚠ Beware of Confusion: the names of accommodations in La Fortuna are very similar.

How to get to La Fortuna with or without a car

La Fortuna is just 3.7 miles (6 km) from the base of Cerro Arenal. On your way there, you’ll either pass by Lake Arenal or the Platanar Volcano, both offering stunning views of lush green forests and possibly even a glimpse of the majestic peak of Arenal Volcano.

The journey itself is an unforgettable experience, no matter which direction you’re coming from.

Travel to La Fortuna by public bus

La Fortuna is well-connected by public buses, with most stopping at the Centro Comercial Adifort.

PUBLIC BUSSES BETWEEN LA FORTUNA AND CIUDAD QUESADA

Regular buses run between La Fortuna and Ciudad Quesada until the evening. The journey takes just over an hour and costs less than $2. In Ciudad Quesada, there are frequent connections to San José.

FROM SAN JOSÉ TO LA FORTUNA BY PUBLIC BUS

Direct buses from San José to La Fortuna depart at 6:00 AM, 8:40 AM, and 11:30 AM with Autotransportes San Carlos. From La Fortuna, buses to San José leave only twice a day, around 1:00 PM and 3:00 PM. The trip takes about 4.5 hours and costs approximately $5.

From La Fortuna, catch the 8:00 AM bus at Parque Central to Tilarán if you want to reach San José.

TRAVEL BETWEEN MONTEVERDE AND LA FORTUNA BY PUBLIC BUS

The bus connection between La Fortuna and Monteverde isn’t as convenient. With a stop in Tilarán, the journey takes about 7 hours, but it’s the most affordable option at around $5. However, if possible, it’s better to take the Jeep-Boat-Jeep combination (below) or drive.

From Monteverde, buses depart at 4:00 AM and 12:30 PM, taking 2.5 hours to reach Tilarán, where you’ll wait about 2 hours before continuing.

BY JEEP AND BOAT TO LA FORTUNA OR MONTEVERDE

The Jeep-Boat-Jeep combination is the fastest and most scenic route between Monteverde and La Fortuna via Santa Elena. From Monteverde, a 4×4 taxi takes you to Lake Arenal. Then, you’ll enjoy a beautiful boat ride across the lake, followed by a minibus transfer to La Fortuna.

The entire trip takes about 3 hours and costs between $25 and $40, depending on the provider. You can reserve this adventure transfer online and cancel up to 24 hours in advance if needed.

DRIVE TO LA FORTUNA BY CAR

La Fortuna and Arenal Volcano are easily accessible by car and well-signposted. From Tilarán, take the scenic route along Lake Arenal. From Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos), you’ll pass by Vulcan Platanar and charming towns. Almost the entire route is paved.

⚠ Drive carefully: Coatis are often spotted on the road!

Is La Fortuna worth visiting?

La Fortuna still ranks among the top destinations in Costa Rica, and the booming tourism has undoubtedly brought changes to this small town. Especially during the high season, you should be prepared for large crowds. Despite this, the town has managed to retain its small-town charm, and the sight of the looming volcano still enchants visitors instantly.

By following some of the tips in this article, you can easily avoid the masses. For instance, during the rainy season, I encountered only a handful of people on the Bosque Trail, and unexpectedly, it turned out to be one of the most beautiful hikes I experienced in Costa Rica.

To sum it up, sometimes it really is worth following the well-trodden tourist paths—just a little bit.

If you wanna hike a volcano in Costa Rica totally off the beaten paths, give Barva Volcano a chance.

Did you find my report helpful? Have you been to La Fortuna and have any tips or updates to share? I’d love to read your comments!